Zagreb on a budget

There’s a lot more to Croatia than Dubrovnik and the islands. A trip to the country's laid-back, historic capital city makes for the perfect weekend break. 

Now is absolutely the time to go. The excellent beer is still gloriously cheap at £1.50 a pint and the place hasn’t yet been discovered by the stag-weekenders. That’s sure to change, now that the Zagreb Tourist Board’s on a drive to promote the city into one of Europe’s top mini-break destinations. A secret this good can only stay secret for so long. 

WHY ZAGREB?

Cheap beer. Friendly people. A medieval old town, oozing history. Do you need another reason? It's all just a couple of hours away. 

LIE OF THE LAND

Founded in the 11th century, the upper, old part of town is set on two small hills, which historically were always at daggers drawn. Now it’s all blood under the bridge. 

TWO CHURCHES

Pop into the imposing cathedral that tops the eastern hill and check out the huge, incongruous chandeliers suspended above the nave — a gift, oddly enough, from the people of Utah. 

More startling still is the gaudy roof of St Mark’s church on the opposite hill. A tad kitsch, the gleaming 19th century glazed-porcelain tiles look as if they were put in last week. 

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

The most visited museum in Zagreb is the truly unique Museum of Broken Relationships. It’s crammed with artefacts and stories commemorating true-life relationships of ordinary people that went for a burton. Sounds depressing but it’s really not. If anything, the opposite — it reminds you romantic pain is to be embraced as part of the human condition. 

FAMILY FRIENDLY 

Every day at noon, a cannon is fired at nerve-shattering volume from Kula Lotrscak tower. Be warned, though: smaller children (and fragile adults) may dissolve into tears. 

Another decent option is the amusing Museum of Illusions. It’s filled with holograms, magic-eye murals, and other such hilarious ocular curios. 

EATING OUT

Zagrebians have a saying: “Pork is the best fish.” This is their roundabout way of emphasising that they *really* like their meat. The meatier, the better.

Sample the “Veal under the bell” at the chic Vinodol or take in a juicy steak at the well-situated Agava. Either way, you won’t be disappointed. The wine’s pretty good too. 

DRINKING OUT

In the evening, locals will quaff a beer at one of the cute cafes lining the busy, charming Tcalciceva street, which dissects the two hills. 

Try the bustling brewery Mali Medi, where the energetic waiters will race tankards of foaming ale to your table before you can work out how to pronounce the brand-names. 

If you’re feeling energetic, then stagger up the 220 steps to the top of the west hill to the chilled-out Pod Starim Krovovima. It's been a watering hole for arty types for centuries. 

In a city like Zagreb, it seems almost obligatory to smoke. Cigarettes are super-cheap at £3 a pack and you can smoke indoors in bars, though not restaurants. 

HANGOVER CURE

Next morning, jump on the bus and whisk your throbbing head out of the city to the Mirogoj Cemetery. 

Home to 300,000 departed souls, it’s fronted by a harmonious baroque arcade, marked by cool stone monuments to Zagreb’s wealthiest families.  

The shady boulevards dividing the tombs are perfect for a soothing stroll, discussing weighty philosophical matters, or giggling at unusual Croatian surnames such as Snap or Robotic.